The process of converting harvested flax to linen is very difficult and sometimes called “the suffering of the flax.”

• After flax is harvested, the stalks are dried and then retted—a process of soaking or exposing the flax to moisture to break down the outer layers and release the fibers.
• Once retted, the flax is dried again and then broken, a step that involves crushing the woody parts of the stalk to separate the fibers.
• The next step, scutching, removes the remaining woody fragments, leaving behind the long, smooth fibers.
• These fibers are then hackled, or combed, to align them and remove shorter, coarse fibers known as tow.
• The prepared fibers are ready for spinning, which involves twisting the long flax fibers into threads using a spinning wheel or a drop spindle.
• Once spun, the threads are wound into skeins, washed to remove impurities, and dried.
• Finally, the linen threads are warped onto a loom, where they are woven into fabric, completing the transformation from flax plant to finished linen textile.

LTFAI Members, for more information and details about processing flax, log in and see the article “The Flax Journey: From Seed to Linen” (PDF) in our members area.

One of the key tools in the flax processing journey is the distaff, a device used to hold and prepare fibers for spinning. Many of these distaffs feature beautifully carved designs, often including motifs that resemble flowers or other natural elements. It was common for young men to carve intricate designs into a distaff and give it to a girl he admired. If the girl used the distaff to spin, it signified her affection for him. This tradition was not just about utility but also a meaningful form of courtship.

Linen weaving has been a central part of Lithuanian culture for centuries, especially as part of a girl’s preparation for marriage. As early as five years old, girls would begin learning to spin and weave, starting with simple sashes before advancing to more complex patterns. The goal was to weave the necessary cloths for their future household, including towels, bed sheets, tablecloths, and sashes that would later be given as gifts during their wedding.

The creation of these textiles was a long process that often began in the winter months. Preparing the fiber and warping the loom could take the majority of the colder season. As the days grew longer after Rūpūs Venčiai (the winter solstice), girls would begin weaving at the loom, producing textiles in time for the spring.

Lithuania

Linen remains an essential part of Lithuanian culture to this day, symbolizing both practicality and beauty. Traditional Lithuanian linens, often woven with intricate patterns, continue to be prized for their craftsmanship and significance. Special occasions, such as weddings or other major life events, are still celebrated with the gift of linen textiles. A particularly special tradition involves giving a sash as a gift for a milestone celebration, a practice that honors the long-standing traditions of weaving and linen crafting.

Through the generations, the legacy of flax cultivation, spinning, and weaving has remained an important thread in the cultural fabric of Lithuania. From the distaffs used in spinning to the finely woven linens that adorn Lithuanian homes, the journey of flax is a testament to the dedication, skill, and enduring cultural pride of the Lithuanian people.